New River Gorge is kind of my happy place. It’s only eight and a half hours away from the city and worth the drive every time. The climbing is much more technical than in the Red. I know, I know, blasphemy. Everyone loves the Red—and I love the Red, too! But if my options are between endurance and technical face climbing, I will always choose the latter. And I’m not just talking about the trad—the sport is phenomenal! Bolts feel a little spaced out but it’s not fun if you’re not running it out, right?

Summersville Lake. Photograph by Michael Locke

Andrew Erwin was kind of an inspiration to me. Two summers ago, I watched him project B52 (5.13a) in the Meadows. I have a lot to thank Andrew for because that was the moment I realized I wanted to do that. I don’t necessarily mean I wanted to climb 5.13 like him, but I wanted to try hard. He didn’t even make it look like he was trying very hard. After watching him, a world of possibility grew. For some reason, he thought I was strong enough to keep up with him on that trip, and I’ll never forget how he made me feel—like I could be great, like him.

We climbed together only a few times in the Gunks that summer. Shortly after, he left to travel the world (from Colorado to California to Australia now to New Zealand). Andrew didn’t know how much that trip meant to me, but he taught me to get after it. And what’s really stopping you from trying but you? I think of him often when I’m turning down a climb because I think I might not be strong enough. Being honest with your feelings isn’t always easy, but when I tell myself that I’m just afraid of failure, I stop. And I just try anyway.

The only 13 I’ve ever truly projected is Apollo Reed (5.13a) in the Coliseum at Summersville Lake. I’m not really sure what inspired me to try that one in the first place. Maybe it’s because I’d been told it’s the easiest 13 in the Coliseum, or maybe it’s because I happened to be with Mike Farnsworth that day, and you feel like you can pretty much climb anything when Farnsworth is around. Matt O’Conner used to see Farnsworth in the Gunks often. He told me that he was the most ridiculously humble guy you will ever meet as he lays waste to all of your projects.

Playing on Apollo Reed (5.13a) with Mike Farnsworth. Photograph by Abe Carte

My new, try-hard attitude brought me to Genocide (5.12a), the hardest thing I’ve ever tried on gear to date. I whipped and took all over that route like it was my full-time job. Finger cracks aren’t necessarily my “thing”, but I guess that the point of challenging yourself is that you need to try something that you might fail at. It’s not really a challenge if you know you can do it.

The first half of Genocide climbs like a powerful sport climb, except that you have to place all of your own gear (minus one bolt in an alcove). The second is a finger and thin hands crack. I fell twice below the bolt. As hard as I tried, I got too pumped and couldn’t clip my quickdraw in time. The pump was too much for me to fight, and twice I took twenty-foot falls.

The finger/hand crack was absolutely stunning the whole way up until I discovered a small nest of spiders. SPIDERS don’t bother me (although this one was about the size of a golf ball), but apparently many tiny baby spiders do. They had me silently hyperventilating as I held my breath and tried to slot in a nut above my head. Dan  Yagmin promised to come back to the Cave next time and clear the nest for me.

My poor TCU got chewed up and I’m pretty torn up about it. This was my first purchased piece of gear—I’m thinking of saving it for a Christmas tree ornament
Getting ready to head back with homemade cinnamon buns (sans gluten!)

Up until my last visit, I’d never really fathomed trying any of those climbs. They are way out of my pay grade. There is this one part of my brain that doesn’t think I’ll ever send Apollo Reed, even though I go back to it every time. I’m also kind of okay with this. I think that I’ll keep going back and working on the moves because I know that it would be a mistake to stop trying. Plus it’s just a FUN climb.

Even though I’ve taken and fallen a hundred times over, I’ve never seen a single fall as a failure. Brick walls don’t mean instant failure. Brick walls exist to try and teach you not to turn around and give up. Don’t let voices inside of your head make you forget that. You have to want it and you have to do the work. Each time I tie in, I take that first deep breath and I tell myself that every single accomplishment starts with the decision to try.

4 thoughts

  1. That last sentence- oh my god! Loving it SO hard!!!

    And I believe I can help you with the girl porn…. 😉 (oh my god, did that just sound uber creepy ‘cuz I didn’t mean it like that!)

    And Jas can probably fix your cam!

  2. Nice! I saw you take a whip on Genocide and we introduced ourselves as you were hang dogging. Small world, nice blog btw! See you around the crag!

  3. You SOOOOO inspire me Kathy! ME, the one who’s been climbing forever, yet still stays in his ‘no fall downclimb instead’ traditional(!) TRAD state of mind, and hangs in the 5.10 world because of it and because I just can’t break from my “happy life” enough to train… yet following YOU, into places I would NEVER go, I now have wider eyes, that open my mind to new possibilities, e.g. those kelidoscopic overhanging walls of Fat City and Yellow Wall, … and I’m now crazily wanting to go back! Do I yell “Oh Save Me!” or do I yell “Oh Kathy Lead Me!” !!! Either way… it feels right to YELL as that’s when I feel most ALIVE! Love U!

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