Managing Expectations

Heading up to the Way Rambo cliff in late November, I had no expectations other than to share a good day and some snacks with my companions. Although we weren’t the first ones at the crag due that morning, the popular route “Way Rambo”, was empty.

It’s rated 5.12- but perhaps considered a soft 12 for those with smaller hands (that's what all the climbers with big hands say, anyway.) The difficulty of a typical Indian Creek route is typically dependent on the width of the crack and, comfortable with that particular size, I generously spaced out my gear placements. Near the top, I slotted in a .75 . Suddenly, the crack felt desperate. Hoping that the second traverse on would be as straightforward as the first one, I realized immediately that it wasn’t. I spent much too long thinking about making the move rather than just going for it, and anticipating a fall, I then shouted to my belayer, “I don’t really want to fall here!” A pause. And then, “Hey, I’m going to fall here!” Devin jumped to give me a soft catch and I took a big ride.

One time, I said to Cleavon Cox in the gym: "Always take the whip!" with a big smirk on my face. Taking my own advice for once, this time, I did. It was a big, airy, traverse-y fall—but it was clean and I was fine.

Generally, I’m pretty happy just making it to the top of a route, regardless of how many takes or falls are involved. I don’t often go for redpoints unless I feel particularly strongly about sending a route, but my friends encouraged me to try—just once more.

But the thing about letting go of expectations is to stop always trying to think ten moves ahead. I get attached to the outcome, and when that expectation isn’t met, then comes the outpour of negative feelings. It's something that we all experience, in both life and climbing. Like I said, I don’t often redpoint climbs, but this Creek trip, I went back to three other routes that I had fallen on last season and sent them first or second go. However, the real win comes when you stop keeping score and do what brings you joy for joy’s sake.

Cover photograph courtesy of Alma Baste